My name is Constanza Valverdi, but everyone calls me Coti. I was born in Córdoba Capital, Argentina. I've been traveling across Italy for the past year and a half, and I thought I had seen it all—until I arrived in Abruzzo.
For the first time, I found an Italian region where nature takes center stage, far away from the buzz of big cities.

I'm a journalist who loves talking to people and hearing their stories. Here in Abruzzo, people opened their hearts to me. My Argentine accent didn’t stop anyone from sharing stories I’ll never forget—and that I now get to share with you.

The first stop on my journey was Roccascalegna Castle—perched dramatically on a giant rock. It's breathtaking from below, but the real magic happens once you climb up. Its history, the view, the silence… It feels like a movie scene.

Lunch was a warm welcome into the local culture: Lu Pennese, a small restaurant in Casoli, where I had the best porchetta I’ve tasted in Italy so far. We started with a board of local cold cuts, each slice bursting with flavor. This was just the beginning of my culinary adventure through the province of Chieti.

That night, I stayed at Agriturismo Persichitti in Fallascoso. From the window of my room, the Majella mountain looked close enough to touch. The room was beautifully designed, modern and cozy. The owners proudly told me all their beds have orthopedic mattresses—for a restful and even healing night’s sleep.

The breakfast? A dream. Local pastries like stuffed pizzelle, homemade puddings made with fresh eggs, and artisanal cold cuts—all produced in the area. Every bite tasted of real, honest quality. But the biggest surprise? The honey. Local, raw, and so pure—I honestly don’t think I’ve ever tasted anything quite like it.
What’s the secret here? Why does everything taste so real?

Next, we visited Iuvanum, where Francesca from the Archaeological Museum gave us a personal tour of the Roman ruins tucked into the hills. As the sun set, we even joined a local group collecting wild herbs.

One thing I’ve already learned: this land heals you. That’s probably why the food here wins global awards. But more on that later.

We ended the day in IL VECCHIO MORO for dinner. We were welcomed by Antonio and his wife, who told me their story. We started with a platter of cured meats. The salami had a reddish color that, just by looking at it, you could realice how much you were going to enjoy it. Antonio told me that his cured meats go through a special process to keep them that way, and that this makes their flavor stand out exponentially.

The first course was fresh ricotta pasta with wild “pietroline” herbs and topped with a sweet red pepper entirely produced by them. Simply unforgettable.

Then came the real outdoor adventure. Paolo Granà, from Camminare in Abruzzo, guided us through a string of magical places: Palena, Taranta Peligna, Pennadomo, Torricella Peligna…

We began at the Madonna dell’Altare sanctuary, where Annamaria shared stories of past and present. That place made me reflect.

Afterward, we headed to the Brown Bear Reserve, where Luigia welcomed us. Her family has roots in Argentina too—she dreams of visiting one day and told us all the Argentine dishes she’d love to try. In return, we shared our culture and stories. Two faraway countries, deeply connected by shared roots.

On the trail, we met a group hiking—and surprise! We found Victor, an Argentine from Buenos Aires who moved here over 20 years ago. He fell in love with the nature, the peace, and the lifestyle.

Together with his local hiking friends, we laughed about our shared traditions.
And that got me thinking: like many Argentines, my grandmother was Italian. After World War II, many Italians came to Argentina. Now, my generation is doing the opposite—traveling back to reconnect with our heritage, our culture, and the soil our families once left behind.

 It’s hard to imagine that the peace this place enjoys today was once one of the areas most affected by the war in Italy. The towns went from an average of 10,000 inhabitants to just 1,000, with depopulated lands and almost ghost-like villages. This brings us here, to meet the children and grandchildren of a generation that chose to stay and fight for their land.

After several curves along the road, we arrived in Acquevive, where nature continued to amaze me. Here, I truly felt part of the mountain, with its water flowing directly from the earth and a crystal-clear color that you rarely see.

A scene I really enjoyed witnessing: many families grilling arrosticini, with the smell of lamb blending with the clean air of nature, children playing, and families enjoying themselves with the Aventino River in the background.

I went straight to try one of the local traditions: ARROSTICINI. Yes, I'm Argentine and I love meat, but I had never eaten sheep meat before, so I can say I really liked it—and I didn’t expect to enjoy it that much (I ate about 10 arrosticini).

Full belly and happy heart, as we say in Spanish, and then we went to visit the Springs of the Verde River.

Another walk brought us to the Gorge of Fara San Martino, where we passed through this rocky canyon. They gave us safety helmets, and we immediately noticed a strong draft of air flowing through the narrowest part, which is just two meters wide.

Tradition says that Saint Martin himself opened this passage and founded the Monastery of San Martino in Valle, located further in. Today it is abandoned, but it can still be seen from a distance.

Back at Il Vecchio Moro, we had a special olive oil tasting. Honestly, I had no idea how to do that—but Antonio taught me.

You swirl, sip, breathe—so your taste buds fully open. The oil was incredible. His family’s olive oil recently placed in the top 3 worldwide.

After that, we enjoyed homemade pasta using their own wheat, with meat ragù and grilled lamb with vegetables.

For dessert: Pizzelle! I didn’t just eat them—I made them. With Antonio’s entire family, even the grandkids. I learned that each family passes down their own pizzelle iron, sometimes engraved with initials. It’s more than dessert. It’s tradition, love, and memory.

We then visited La Guardata, a modern farmhouse in the mountains run by Giorgia Teti and her family. There, I saw something I’ll never forget—a baby lamb being born. Completely unexpected. Completely beautiful.

Giorgia’s family has relatives in the U.S.—like many Abruzzesi. We shared stories and tasted the best of the region: cured meats, ricotta, aged cheese, bread, and of course, Pallotte Cacio e Ova—a humble dish created long ago by poor families. Now, it’s so beloved it has its own festival.

A helicopter ride. Over the Majella. I never saw it coming.

It was my first time flying in a helicopter—and what a view! So much green, so much beauty in a world so full of screens.

Thank you to Mayor Carmine Ficca of Torricella Peligna for making this happen, and to our pilot, Fabio Falasca, who helped me see the best-kept secret in Italy—from the sky.

The most incredible things I learned while visiting these places:

• It’s the area with the richest wildlife in all of Italy.
• You can see the sea while you're skiing.
• For those who enjoy hiking or trekking, it’s one of the best places to go.
• It was one of the most heavily attacked areas in Italy during World War II.
• The secret behind the local pasta is the water drawn from the mountain.

Simply… Thank You, Abruzzo.

A land of deep roots, bold flavors, and kind souls.
A land that embraces those who come back to reconnect.

Special thanks to:
Marco Rosso & Pablo Etcheverry – Siamo l’Abruzzo Citeriore & NeverEndingTourism
Marco Cirulli & Ivan Serafini – Italea Abruzzo
GAL Maiella Verde
Paolo Granà – Camminare in Abruzzo
The Persichitti family
Antonio & family – Il Vecchio Moro
Giorgia Teti – La Guardata